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	<title>Comments on: Samsung SyncMaster 204B Repair (Updated)</title>
	<atom:link href="http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/</link>
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		<title>By: David</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-3179</link>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Aug 2010 23:20:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-3179</guid>
		<description>The cost of the Capacitors is so very little and the monitor is faultering already. what harm could it cause in replacing them anyway.
P.S  i have know capacitors to go bad without bulging.
 :wink:</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The cost of the Capacitors is so very little and the monitor is faultering already. what harm could it cause in replacing them anyway.<br />
P.S  i have know capacitors to go bad without bulging.<br />
 <img src='http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif' alt=':wink:' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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		<title>By: Lee</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2948</link>
		<dc:creator>Lee</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:40:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2948</guid>
		<description>Success on my SyncMaster 204B, thanks. All five of my caps were bulging. Removing the old caps was the most difficult. I tried using a de-solder braid with little success. I would recommend getting a de-solder tool. Ordered the kit from ccl-la.com for $12.00.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Success on my SyncMaster 204B, thanks. All five of my caps were bulging. Removing the old caps was the most difficult. I tried using a de-solder braid with little success. I would recommend getting a de-solder tool. Ordered the kit from ccl-la.com for $12.00.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Seth</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2821</link>
		<dc:creator>Seth</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Aug 2010 04:26:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2821</guid>
		<description>I have a 204B, and mine is flickering/having trouble displaying what it is supposed to display.  I assumed since the capacitors are an overwhelming problem with these monitors, that that must have been the issue.  I took it apart but did not find bulging capacitors.  I attached pictures to show.  Any other ideas?

http://i28.tinypic.com/3479mbl.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/111ibnn.jpg
http://i27.tinypic.com/97thc2.jpg</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a 204B, and mine is flickering/having trouble displaying what it is supposed to display.  I assumed since the capacitors are an overwhelming problem with these monitors, that that must have been the issue.  I took it apart but did not find bulging capacitors.  I attached pictures to show.  Any other ideas?</p>
<p><a href="http://i28.tinypic.com/3479mbl.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i28.tinypic.com/3479mbl.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://i29.tinypic.com/111ibnn.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i29.tinypic.com/111ibnn.jpg</a><br />
<a href="http://i27.tinypic.com/97thc2.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i27.tinypic.com/97thc2.jpg</a></p>
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		<title>By: Jon Mitguard</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2785</link>
		<dc:creator>Jon Mitguard</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jul 2010 20:07:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2785</guid>
		<description>This is so great. I&#039;m using my newly revived monitor right now. I really glad you elaborated on the YouTube post as you pretty much answered any question that would come up. Especially issues with the new caps fitting. My 820 caps were to tall but I just leaned them over a bit and it works fine.  All my caps were bulging except the little one and  i replaces all of them. before it took about half an hour to see anything on the screen, now it is instant. Thank you Thank you Thank you.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is so great. I&#8217;m using my newly revived monitor right now. I really glad you elaborated on the YouTube post as you pretty much answered any question that would come up. Especially issues with the new caps fitting. My 820 caps were to tall but I just leaned them over a bit and it works fine.  All my caps were bulging except the little one and  i replaces all of them. before it took about half an hour to see anything on the screen, now it is instant. Thank you Thank you Thank you.</p>
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		<title>By: Andy Smith</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2738</link>
		<dc:creator>Andy Smith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jul 2010 00:30:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2738</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the guide!  I have also been experiencing the flickering issue for the past few weeks.  I took my monitor apart and also found that C110 and C111 were both swollen...not leaking yet.  I stopped by the local Radio Shack and was able to get all the needed parts to do the repair.  My monitor is now working perfectly!!  Thanks so much for this info!  Just before finding this site I was shopping on NewEgg for a replacement...now I can save money!! :)

BTW - my LCD case was a little different to take a part.  I could not locate the &quot;green tabs&quot; as indicated in the PDF.  I started at the back bottom right and began prying on the case until it came apart.  I managed to break the little clips in each of the four corners, but I doubt it will have any problems as the stand on the back pretty much holds the load.

Thanks again!

-Andy</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the guide!  I have also been experiencing the flickering issue for the past few weeks.  I took my monitor apart and also found that C110 and C111 were both swollen&#8230;not leaking yet.  I stopped by the local Radio Shack and was able to get all the needed parts to do the repair.  My monitor is now working perfectly!!  Thanks so much for this info!  Just before finding this site I was shopping on NewEgg for a replacement&#8230;now I can save money!! <img src='http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>BTW &#8211; my LCD case was a little different to take a part.  I could not locate the &#8220;green tabs&#8221; as indicated in the PDF.  I started at the back bottom right and began prying on the case until it came apart.  I managed to break the little clips in each of the four corners, but I doubt it will have any problems as the stand on the back pretty much holds the load.</p>
<p>Thanks again!</p>
<p>-Andy</p>
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		<title>By: TravisH</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2728</link>
		<dc:creator>TravisH</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Jul 2010 22:49:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2728</guid>
		<description>Thank You So Much Pavel!  $5 and my beloved 204B is like new! 

My board is Rev 0.1 with no 680µF caps and a 150µF at C105. All caps are CrapXon except the 330µF&#039;s which are Samxon (Hong Kong).  All caps are rated at 105ºC.

I will order a complete Cap replacement set but, since only the 820µF caps at C110,C111 were bulging, I went with the Radio Shack 1000µF 35V caps, pn 292-1032, 85ºC, $1.59 each.  At 12.5mm x 20mm, height is perfect but the diameter is a little too wide so one had to be tilted slightly.

Thanks to Nick, a $1 2&quot; Plastic Putty Knife works perfectly for opening the case. Standing the panel upright, upside down, and holding the knife &#039;stabbing&#039; style, starting over the &#039;Samsung&#039; label, just push down with increasing pressure until the snaps yield.  It sounds like they&#039;re breaking but they&#039;re not.  Once the first ones open, just slide the knife along the widening gap while still pusing down with a rocking motion.  The corners were a bit harder so I didn&#039;t force them, just rotated the panel and started in the middle of the next side.

I used a $.50 10W 10kΩ wirewound resister to discharge all caps. Since the leads were so long, I just bent them at 90º and held the resistor with forceps across all cap leads for a minute each.

Desoldering was no problem at all.  Using a Radio Shack 15W/30W soldering iron set to 30W, the old solder melted right away and wicked away easily. The leads were bent over but also seemed to be glued.  I gently pried with a small knife at the tip of the lead until it moved then used forceps to bend upright. A slight push with the soldering iron and the old caps fell right out.

The whole operation took just over an hour but I was being anal about not rushing and getting it right.
  
The results were astounding.  Went from a 15 minute wait for a dim image at 100 Brightness to an instant-on blazing image even at 25 Brightness!

Thanks again to Pavel and all who have contributed!  It gave me the confidence I could do it myself!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank You So Much Pavel!  $5 and my beloved 204B is like new! </p>
<p>My board is Rev 0.1 with no 680µF caps and a 150µF at C105. All caps are CrapXon except the 330µF&#8217;s which are Samxon (Hong Kong).  All caps are rated at 105ºC.</p>
<p>I will order a complete Cap replacement set but, since only the 820µF caps at C110,C111 were bulging, I went with the Radio Shack 1000µF 35V caps, pn 292-1032, 85ºC, $1.59 each.  At 12.5mm x 20mm, height is perfect but the diameter is a little too wide so one had to be tilted slightly.</p>
<p>Thanks to Nick, a $1 2&#8243; Plastic Putty Knife works perfectly for opening the case. Standing the panel upright, upside down, and holding the knife &#8216;stabbing&#8217; style, starting over the &#8216;Samsung&#8217; label, just push down with increasing pressure until the snaps yield.  It sounds like they&#8217;re breaking but they&#8217;re not.  Once the first ones open, just slide the knife along the widening gap while still pusing down with a rocking motion.  The corners were a bit harder so I didn&#8217;t force them, just rotated the panel and started in the middle of the next side.</p>
<p>I used a $.50 10W 10kΩ wirewound resister to discharge all caps. Since the leads were so long, I just bent them at 90º and held the resistor with forceps across all cap leads for a minute each.</p>
<p>Desoldering was no problem at all.  Using a Radio Shack 15W/30W soldering iron set to 30W, the old solder melted right away and wicked away easily. The leads were bent over but also seemed to be glued.  I gently pried with a small knife at the tip of the lead until it moved then used forceps to bend upright. A slight push with the soldering iron and the old caps fell right out.</p>
<p>The whole operation took just over an hour but I was being anal about not rushing and getting it right.</p>
<p>The results were astounding.  Went from a 15 minute wait for a dim image at 100 Brightness to an instant-on blazing image even at 25 Brightness!</p>
<p>Thanks again to Pavel and all who have contributed!  It gave me the confidence I could do it myself!</p>
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		<title>By: David</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2575</link>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Jul 2010 00:39:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2575</guid>
		<description>Sorry, wrong abbreviation.  Should read&quot; 2-1,000 UF 35V.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry, wrong abbreviation.  Should read&#8221; 2-1,000 UF 35V.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: David</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2571</link>
		<dc:creator>David</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jul 2010 14:04:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2571</guid>
		<description>This works.  My monitor was taking 5+ minutes to warm up.  I used the suggestions here and replaced C110 and C111 with 2 1,000Mf 35v capacitors from Radio Shack for $1.60 a piece.  The whole project took about an hour and the monitor works.  Thanks for the help.

David</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This works.  My monitor was taking 5+ minutes to warm up.  I used the suggestions here and replaced C110 and C111 with 2 1,000Mf 35v capacitors from Radio Shack for $1.60 a piece.  The whole project took about an hour and the monitor works.  Thanks for the help.</p>
<p>David</p>
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		<title>By: Liviu</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2551</link>
		<dc:creator>Liviu</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jul 2010 13:04:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2551</guid>
		<description>:grin: Just fixed my 204B thanks!
Mouser was great</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p> <img src='http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif' alt=':grin:' class='wp-smiley' />  Just fixed my 204B thanks!<br />
Mouser was great</p>
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		<title>By: Thanh Ronsini</title>
		<link>http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/comment-page-2/#comment-2427</link>
		<dc:creator>Thanh Ronsini</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 03 May 2010 19:26:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/blog/?p=95#comment-2427</guid>
		<description>great information thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>great information thanks</p>
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